February 7, 2011

Monday Beauty Blog- Avni

When planning StyleWeek Providence’s makeup looks, one thing that I try to be very conscious of is that no two looks are identical. This can be a challenge; especially when the whole world loves a smoky eye. Seriously, everyone loves a smoky eye. There is no technique I get asked to teach more than the smoky eye. And of course everyone loves the look, it is sexy. It is mysterious. It looks great on stage, and bold in an evening setting. The trick is making sure that each designer’s smoky eye was distinctive enough that none looked the same. Every designer’s collection is so unique and special it is absolutely imperative that their styling is as unique and special.

Avni was one of the only designers to ask for variations from model to model. She asked for a smoky eye in a variety of colors, plums, grays, and bronzes. Originally she had also mentioned blue, which is why the trial images are with blue shadows, but then decided on bronze instead of blue. I do love a blue smoky eye (done right) though! Everyone should play with blue eye shadow every now and again!

The theme for Avni’s show was based around, warrior women. Very strong, very bold, there was nothing timid about the looks. And thus we went for a pretty bold smoky eye. For the instructions I will list the colors I used for the trial shot and in the end of this blog I will list the colors we used for the other color families.
Photo by Daniel Gagnon

Trial of eye look

With any smoky eye, I recommend doing the eye makeup first then doing your foundation and other complexion makeup so you can clean up any fall out that may occur during application. I started by prepping the lid with an eye shadow base. Then I used a cake liner and a flat (not angled) eye liner brush and applied black liner into the lash line of the upper lashes. I then applied Laura Mercier Black Navy Eye Pencil to the entire eye lid and along the lower lash line blending it out with a crème shadow brush. I then packed Laura Mercier’s Sequin Shadow in Lapis into the liner on both the lid and lash line. Using Laura’s shadow Deep Night, the upper and lower lash line are defined then more shadow is placed on the outer corners of the eyes and into the crease. I then take a soft ponytail brush and blend the edges to make sure nothing looks too hard or forced. Even a smoky eye should look effortless.  No one wants to LOOK like they are trying. Then a shimmery beige shadow (I used Stellar from Laura Mercier) is placed on the brow bone and a dash in the inner corners of each eye. If the eyes aren’t defined enough, I may add a smidge of black shadow into the lash line as well. Then a couple coats of black mascara are applied and topped off with perhaps a pair of false eye lashes. There are no lashes in the trial picture but we used them in the show.

From here I clean up the fallout, and then even out the skin with the appropriate foundation, always using a sponge or my fingers (foundation brushes are made by marketing departments not makeup artists). Keeping it sheer, so you never see foundation. Concealer is then applied sparingly only where needed and the entire face is set with powder. We used a pretty nude blush. For the lighter models we used a color called Wild Bouquet and for the darker models a color called Spiced Cider. Because we wanted the models to look fairly intense, blush was used more to contour than to blush. For a softer look I would apply it more towards the apples of the cheeks.

 Everyone’s brows were filled in with brow powder and groomed with a bit of brow gel.

The lip gloss of choice for this show was Champagne Glace. That is probably one of my all time favorite nude glosses. And when you wear a bold smoky eye, a nude lip really is a must.

As I mentioned above we did a few variations of this eye for Avni’s show. When we did a plum colored smoky eye we used Laura Mercier’s Black Caviar liner, Kir Royale and Black Plum shadow. When we did a charcoal eye, we used Black Caviar liner, Celestial, and Noir shadows. And for the bronze eye, we used Brown Copper pencil, Burnished and Coffee Ground eye shadow. The same cheek and lip colors were used across the board.

This really was such a beautiful look, and I loved it with Avni’s designs. Everyone looked so powerful and yet still very feminine. This was the first time I have had the pleasure to work with Avni, and I am very excited to see what she has in store for the future!

Next week Sarah Prost!

 If you decide to play with any of the looks I write about, please, send me pictures! Send your questions to Jessica@styleweekprovidence.com

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