February 21, 2011

Monday Beauty Blog-Kara Wickman

Kara Wickman’s makeup look is probably one of the easiest looks to take straight from the runway and wear in your real life. While it is undoubtedly a little too glamorous for the office or brunch, it is really the perfect look for any night you want to upstage every other woman in the room. It is dramatic, but really just sexy and sultry.
Photo by Stew Milne

This look is also a perfect example of how important it is to communicate with the designers a lot. Kara had told me that she envisioned a very French look for this collection. I had spent some time in France when I was much younger, and I immediately envisioned the women I had known in France; dewy naked skin, little to no eye makeup, hair in a pony tail, and red lips. Totally NOT what Kara had in mind at all. She wanted that seductive, enchantress at a cocktail party look. This is precisely why I also always insist that my clients give me visual examples of what they have in mind. I can’t tell you how many brides tell me they want, classic, elegant, natural makeup. Then they will show me a picture of someone with a smoky eye, or a red lip, or all they want is lip balm and blush. This holds true with designers too. Both brides and designers have an exact vision of what should be coming down the aisle/runway. They can be heartbroken if you don’t make it perfect. This was Kara’s first show, which makes it all the more important to get the look just right.
Photo by Heidi Finn

One of the things I really like about this look is how pretty it was on all of the models, from our very fair blonde models to our darker African American models.  It is really just a flattering look across the board. As with all smoky eye looks that I create; start with the eyes, so that fallout can be cleaned up before applying complexion makeup. Prime the lid with an eye shadow base that flatters your natural skin tone. I love Laura Mercier’s Eye Basics (I use them even at events where Laura isn’t our sponsor, as well as many other Laura products….). Tight line the upper lash line with Black Ebony Cake Liner and a flat eye liner brush.  Using a crème eye shadow brush, apply Black Caviar liner to the entire lid and along the lower lash line. Using a small eye shadow brush pack on (my favorite) Sequin Shadow in Shimmerplum onto the lid up to the crease. Then using a corner eye color brush place Noir eye shadow on the outer corners of the lid, along the lash line and into the crease. Apply a pale shimmery beige (or skin tone appropriate shade if you are darker) onto the brow bone. Using a clean Ponytail Brush blend the crease and the lower lash line so everything is soft and there are no hard lines. From here, apply your foundation primer and the appropriate foundation. Your foundation should provide enough coverage so that your skin appears flawless, but no one should ever be able to see your foundation. Like a good undergarment, if it is working it is undetectable and you will appear naturally flawless. Conceal any imperfections, like under eye circles and blemishes. Set skin with a colorless loose setting powder using a puff or a fan brush. Fill in eye brows with a brow pencil so that they are well defined, but not overwhelming. Apply two coats of black mascara, and perhaps a set of false lashes. Place Violet Orchid blush on the apples of the cheeks (this color is gorgeous on about 95% of the world). Line your lips with Very Cherry pencil and fill in with the pencil. This way, as your lip color fades you aren’t left with a ring. Fill the lips in with Currant lip color.  For those of us where lip color tends to migrate into fine lines (ah the joys of aging…) a great trick is to use a clear pencil around the perimeter of your mouth. It really works like a little fence for your lipstick. Another lip color option that I love with this eye is Plum Noir lip glace. I have such a soft spot in my heart for this color.
Photo by Heidi Finn

This was a really pretty look, that I had a lot of fun creating. Kara got a standing ovation for her inaugural show, and I hope that this look contributed to that.

Next week Maria Mercado and her spicy red lips and bronze eyes.

Send your questions to jessica@StyleWeekProvidence.com

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