March 14, 2011

Monday Beauty Blog- Samuel Vartan

Samuel Vartan is always a blast to work with. He has a specific woman for whom he creates his designs. She is strong and sensual and mysterious. I totally envision a Bond girl wearing his clothes. Some knockout woman who no one can take their eyes off of, who also happens to be an assassin and maybe a nuclear physicist. We originally had talked about doing a very beachy bronzy look for his show. 
Original Bronzy Look

 But his collection evolved into something that required a more urban edge; it is called “Dark City” for heavens sake. Beachy just wasn’t going to be right. He decided that he wanted the models to be very strong and sexy but almost gothic in appearance; maybe a little more vampire Bond girl.
Dark City Look

His shows are always a lot of fun because the models always seem so excited to walk for him, and they are always gorgeous! There is always a great energy back stage, and everyone has so much fun making it all come together.

Samuel’s look definitely is not for the meek, and probably NSFW (unless maybe you ARE a Bond girl), but if ever there is an evening that you want to go out and be the most gorgeous, and intimidating woman in the room, this is probably the look to sport.
Photo courtesy of Daniel Gagnon

Start by prepping the eye lid with a lighter eye shadow base applied lash to brow. Using a water activated cake liner apply black liner to the upper and lower lash line in between the eye lashes. Then using a very creamy black pencil line the lower lash line extending the line out into a wing. By following the natural lash line of the lower lashes your winged line will be even and balanced. Then, using the same black pencil and a cream shadow brush, color in the upper lid up to the crease, blending with the brush for an even finish.  Extend the shape out just slightly to create a more almond shaped eye. Then, pack on a shimmering black eye shadow into the liner on the lid and on the lower lash line. Buff the shadow so it has a sheen to it, without appearing too sparkly. Using a soft fluffy shadow brush place a shimmery purple shadow on the lid toward the inner corners. Take a flat black shadow and smoke it along the top and bottom lash line and along the crease. And then highlight the brow bone with a white shadow. At this point clean up any fallout that may have occurred on the cheeks and prime the skin with a foundation primer. Even out the skin with a foundation that matches perfectly, and conceal any spots and dark circles. Then using a foundation about two shades lighter, highlight the tops of the cheekbones, the center of the forehead, the length of the nose, and the cupids bow. Set entire face with a colorless loose setting powder using a fan brush. If additional highlighting is desired, dust some brightening powder (not shimmer) on the high planes of the face. Contour the cheekbones with a cool plummy tone (for the show we actually used an eye shadow color), if that is too intense, try a plum based blush instead. Curl the lashes, apply two coats of mascara to the top and bottom lashes. Apply false lashes; go for a shape that sweeps out to the side some. The lip I created for this show was achieved by lining the lips with black pencil, blending it well with a lip brush and then filling in the center of the lips with a true red lip color. Again, this may be bold for some, if that is the case try just a deep red hue instead.

There really is something so empowering about this look. The models even commented about on how excited they were to wear this, and how sexy they felt in it. True beauty and power come from within, but a smoldering,  smoky eye certainly couldn’t hurt in inspiring that beauty and power to shine a little brighter.

Hope you had fun playing with this look. Please send all your questions to

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